Tips & Helpful Hints on Working with Concrete

A quality batch of concrete should consist of at least a 5-sack mix with no fly ash, retarders, curing compounds or chloride accelerators. The slab should be hard trawled by machine to a slick mirror finish. "Burning" the slab creates a nice shading and depth or colour; however, "burrs" or trash caught under the blades cut unfavourable swirls.

It is important that the concrete be thoroughly finished with hand tools where needed around the plumbing, risers, floor outlets or any other element which is not accessible by the machine.

Silicone chalks should NOT be used if at all possible. The red and yellow chalks are permanent dyes. Do not over mark for the framing. Do NOT use silicone sprays to “hold” the lines. The sprays repel the stain and leave harsh, permanent scars on the floor.

It is imperative that wood, sheet goods, sections of framing and the like not lay on the slab for extended periods of time. They can transfer resins and tannins. They alter the moisture content in the slab, which leaves a pattern in the finished floor.

The floor should be protected from the following: plumber's glue, foam insulation, bond release agents, flux, oils, grease, polyurethane, paint, markers, grease sticks, spray paints, crayons, muriatic acid, and other chemicals both before and after staining and/or sealing or waxing. Muriatic acid prevents concrete from reacting to the stains and should never be used on concrete that is going to be acid stained!!!

The framers should brace the wall to the outside and not to the slab. Doorplates should be cut away immediately.

It is extremely important that you do not tape the floor! When covering the floor, overlap sheets of builder's paper from Home Depot. Tape the first sheet to the wall, then overlap the second sheet to the first and tape it to the paper. Do not tape to the floor. Duct tape, masking tape, packaging tape, strap tape, blue tape, green tape and electrical tape – there are NO exceptions. The tape alters the natural curing process and transfers chemicals to and from the slab. This will show in the finished product.

When covering the floor, you may use sheets of Masonite® or single-faced cardboard on top of the builder's paper; however, do not cover the floor with plastic at any time! It prevents the slab from breathing, which inhibits proper curing. It can result in efflorescence. Prevent excessive vapor transmission.

Touch-ups are often needed and should be expected following a stain, seal and/or wax work.

Acid stains are chemically reactive metallic salts that seek out and react with the lime in the concrete. As such, they can be manipulated but not controlled, and anticipated but not guaranteed. Our colour slabs show typical colour reactions. However, every slab is different.

Every pour of concrete will react independently to the stains. All elements and circumstances affect the outcome of the floors. Temperature, humidity, age of concrete, batch of stain, batch mix design of concrete, accelerators, fly ash, wind, instructions listed herein and the like will all contribute to the outcome of the floor. Exact colours and stain patterns cannot be achieved – it is fundamental that all parties involved understand this . Please understand also that this process creates a totally unique floor, with depth and beauty that cannot be copied.

Cut the slab 1 day after it is poured for control joints and tire or decorative cuts, before the framers set the walls. Then return to stain and wax or seal the slab when the project is "dried in" (framed with doors, windows and water tight – no insulation or sheet rock). After the project is dried in, the floors should be covered as directed above. Should additional wax be needed post-construction, thoroughly clean the floor (sweep, vacuum or mop). An alternate schedule is to wait until the final stage of construction to stain.